Author Archives: atsioneva

Trail Notes – October 3 (Open Arms on the Edge of Town Hostel, Luray, VA)

Base shift! Base shift! Switching bases is a tricky thing, and inevitably takes longer than expected, with the driving portion and all, and then half the hiking day is gone… It did not help that I was hurting quite a bit this morning. But by noon, I was on the move…

… Right into Luray Caverns. It was only three miles away, and I am a cave junkie. I felt the need to be underground! And while there were no white blazes down there, there was a lot of white rock. And red rock, and black rock, and neat cave formations. The tour was about an hour and a bit over a mile long, so it wasn’t a total zero day.

Especially considering the time/distance spent wandering around the hedge garden maze they had set up. It would have been more fun with company, but I still enjoyed it! No white blazes in here either, but whoever set it up had a good sense of humor!

Then it was walking back into downtown Luray a mile or so back. I had my eye on a Celtic Pub for a Guinness and some Irish beef stew. I got the Guinness. The rest of it went like this:

“I’ll have the Irish stew, please.”

“Sorry, we are sold out. We’re also sold out of the shepherd’s pie.”

“Hmmm. Well, what about the petite cut of steak?”

“I’ll go check…. *pause* Sorry, that is sold out, too.”

*disbelieving look* “Oh, all right, I’ll have the burger then. And another beer.” 

*waitress goes off to place order. Hiker shakes her head and starts playing with her phone again.*

At least it was a good burger. But I wanted stew!

Tomorrow, I will hike again. Sixteen miles or so. I will worry about the missing day later, or make it up bit by bit. It was a fun day. I got a rock. Life moves on.

I hike on!

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Maildrop Info. Also, Ow.

The ribs are really hurting today. Blech. So is the wallet. The two are directly related.

My next maildrop will be Waynesboro, VA, on the southern end of the Shenandoah National Park:

General Delivery

c/o Elisabeth Hagen

Waynesboro Post Office

200 S. Wayne Ave

Waynesboro, VA 22980

Ow.

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Trail Notes – October 2 (Mountain Home Hostel, Manassas Gap, Shenandoah National Park)

TWENTYTWENTYTWENTYTWENTY

Yes. Today was that long awaited day where the mileage counter clicked over to register a 2 in the tens column! Granted, I was slackpacking, but still!

The day began, as most days do, when the sun rose. Not that you could really tell (yes, I was already awake); it was typically grey and foggy, and the sun was under a blanket of cloud and didn’t want to get up either. I can’t say I blame it – my breakfast was tasty eggs and toast, while poor Sol had to make do with hydrogen. Blech.

My shuttle came at 7:30, and by 8 am, I was on the trail. I first had to cover the 8 miles I did not do last night, but the trail was a dream of level dirt track with only a few rocky patches, and by 11:30, I was at the road – better than 2 mph. 

I could have stopped there, walked down to the hostel a few tenths of a miles away, and called it a day, but I was on a roll, and stopping was out of the question. The next 1.4 miles were a bit tougher, simply because the path was slippery, wet clay, and inclined upwards enough for the slipperiness to be annoying. Fortunately, that part did not last too long, and then it was level ridgeline again. There was a lot of level ridgeline, but just before the entrance to Shenandoah National Park (SNP), there was a rocky section that was actually kinda fun.

To camp or occupy a shelter in SNP, a backcountry permit is required. It is free, and you self-register for it, listing where you will be camping each night. The format is pretty confusing, and mine is already in error, since I was too optimistic about the rib’s healage.  Ah well.

Onwards, wide, level track again, very much enjoyed and appreciated. I’d originally planned to end at Jenkins Gap, 15 miles in, but I. Just. Kept. Walking. I was fueled by many snacks and Clif energy boost gels. 

I had a hard time contacting my shuttle, cell reception was fading in and out, but maybe I should have taken that as a sign! She terrified the heck out of me when she decided to try to call her daughter while driving on narrow, steep drop-off on the left, Skyline Drive. Let’s just say, in her best moments, she regarded that solid yellow line in the middle as a guideline, not an actual rule, and for the phone call attempt, she went full Brit as the car drifted into the left-hand lane and stayed there for almost a full minute. I just watched that sheer dropoff get closer and closer, and then, thank God, a scenic overlook pullover opened on the right, and I rather urgently suggested she make the call from there, and she proceeded to do so. White-knuckled Ziptie will not use this shuttler again.

Hit a Subway (not literally), on 16th drive back for a sub and a cookie, then back to the hostel to eat, shower, and begin figuring things out. I packed two large priority boxes after resupplying with food – one box is holding more food to bounce ahead.

The other box is holding my tent and assorted odds and ends. In an attempt to reduce pack weight, so I can actually carry it again, I am shipping the tent ahead to Waynesboro, and will either stay in shelters or at hostels in SNP. Truthfully, I want to stay at the shelters I have listed on my permit, on the days I have listed on my permit, but after trying on the pack with reduced weight, my ribs firmly told me, “Too soon. Try again in 2 days.”

 So I have a ride out to a Luray hostel tomorrow to drop off the pack, and then 15 miles to slackpack between where I left off today, and the Luray trailhead. So far, though, mileage wise, I’m doing pretty well – I need to average 16 or 17 a day in October to make the Halloween deadline, and I’ve hiked 32 miles in the last two days, so. 

I hike on!

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Resolved:

(Proposed on 29 September in the calendar year 2016 A.D. by Appalachian Trail thru-hiker Ziptie, alternately known as Elisabeth, Betsy, Sioneva, and Rocky. Passed by unanimous consent of the aforementioned thru-hiker on 1 October in the calendar year 2016 A.D. Amendments to said proposal will be taken out and shot at dawn.)

Resolved:

  1. That upon reaching the line of boundary between the Commonwealth of Virginia and the State of Tennessee, that the aforementioned person shall cease to hike on for the calendar year 2016 A.D.
  2. That this boundary shall be reached and breached on or before 31 October in the calendar year 2016 A.D.
  3. That this boundary shall mark the 1724th mile traversed upon the Appalachian Trail by the aforementioned thru-hiker, leaving 465 miles undone.
  4. That any person present or future who might to celebrate this event in person should inform the aforementioned thru-hiker, and be ready to gather in the town of Damascus, VA, on or around this date. Costumes are optional
  5. That the aforementioned thru-hiker wishes to convey apologies to anyone, including herself, who may be disappointed or unhappy with a failure to reach the mountain in Georgia given the nomenclature “Springer Mountain”.
  6. That this shall not a “The End”, but rather a “To Be Continued”.
  7. That this resolution was written by a very strange person.
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Trail Notes – September 30 (Mountain Home “Cabbin”, Front Royal, VA)

My base of operations shifted today, approximately 35 miles south to just outside Front Royal. Unfortunately, the weather has not shifted – it has been raining pretty constantly for over 24 hours now. The wind has dropped, but the rain continues to beat on the windows.

Today, after being dropped off at the Mountain Home Cabbin Hostel, I dumped my stuff and went into the city to get maildrops and to play tourist for a while. Also, cheeseburger. This is a town rich in Civil War history, much as Harper’s Ferry was; Stonewall Jackson once fought and won a battle here, and the street names and historic signs tell the tale. I walked through many of the shops in the old town, along Main Street. Spent some time at the library. Ducked into a bookstore and bought an old book on Betsy Ross to be shipped home – this was a very classy used books bookstore, not the average run of the mill!

Also cheeseburger.

The hostel where I am staying is incredibly unique. Listed on the Register of Historic Places, it was a 2,000 acre plantation during the Civil War. It breathes history. It is not 2000 acres now, of course, but several of the old buildings remain. The red brick “Cabbin” building serving as the hostel used to be slave quarters. The owners, Scott and Lisa, are doing extensive, major repairs and renovations to the main house, to turn it into a bed and breakfast. She gave me a tour of it, pointing out both the history and purpose for each room, and what they were going to use the room for. It was fascinating! My mother would have loved it. The original part from the 1700’s, then the house as it was just before the Civil War, then the additions built onto the house just after the Civil War, and finally the renovations of today, you could clearly see the demarcation points.

Tomorrow, regardless of weather, I hike – after a breakfast of French Toast and coffee! A shuttle driver will drop me back off at Ashby Gap, 20 miles back, and I will hike south. I am hoping to make all 20 miles tomorrow, but if I cannot, there are multiple road crossings where I can stop and call for a shuttle. Either way, I will end up back here again tomorrow night. And then figure out what happens next day. And so  on. I can’t deny that I’m not too happy about all the slackpacking shuttling around, and hostel  stays, but with the weather and the rib, it’s likely for the best.

Ah well.

I hike on!

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Trail Notes – September 29 (Bear’s Den Hostel, Purcellville, VA)

*singing* And the rain rain rain came down down down…

Oy. It is wet and chilly and windy out there! The Ziptie opted to not hike. No regrets there. And I was hardly alone, there are about ten hikers here staying out of the weather. DVD marathon – Perfect Storm was followed by 2001: A Space Odyssey, then Pirates of the Caribbean, and finally My Big Fat Greek Wedding. I only really watched part of Perfect Storm and most of PotC. Now the guys are watching football.

A group of us got restless and bored and went into nearby Purcellville to hit the outfitter and have lunch. Given the weather in VA so far, and that fact I somehow left my rain jacket in Maine, I purchased new Frogg Togg rain gear and some polypro long johns. I have a feeling that I am going to need them. 

Tomorrow I pack my gear and get a shuttle to a hostel in Front Royal. This means that I have a 20 mile stretch of trail south of Bear’s Den and north of Front Royal that I need to slackpack. Depending on the terrain (and the rib),  I might be able to do it all in a single day. Possible, if not likely, but if I do, I’ll need the whole day, so it would be Saturday. The hostel stays and shuttles add up, but so far I have been incredibly lucky, thanks to generous people, and have caught rides free of charge. 

This is an incredible hostel. Tonight, a group of us were clustered in comfortable chairs near a lit fireplace, quietly reading, while another hiker played the piano in the background. Every now and then, I put the Kindle down to take a sip of cocoa. Outside, wind and rain were hammering at the windows. I will be sorry to leave, but I feel that familiar restlessness, too… Time to push on. 

My Virginia cousins have expressed interest in joining me for a period of hiking – that should be fun! There are 550 miles of AT in VA, and so far I have done… 33. Completing Virginia will be an accomplishment all in itself!

I don’t know if I will be hiking tomorrow or not. I kinda hope to. But let’s see what the weather does, as well. I feel like I’m stalled, and yet… Maybe that’s not a bad thing.

I cover distance!

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Trail Notes – September 28 (VA Roller Coaster, Bear’s Den Hostel)

Yes, I pancaked this morning. I syruped and cantalouped as well. It was very tasty, even if the pancakes were a premade mix. There was coffee, too.

And two very kind trail angels, MaryAnn and Judy, who gave me a ride to the VA 50 parking lot, 13.5 miles away. I hit the trail about 10 am, and made very good time for the first 10 miles. The trail was stunningly and wonderfully easy for a very long time. Sometimes it was rocky, and I was doing 2 mph. Sometimes I was flying at 3 mph. During the 3 mph times though, my ribs would occasionally hurt, just to remind me if I really had been flying, I wouldn’t have gotten hurt!

The trail is a lot more lonely these days, but there were some I passed, it wasn’t empty. It was a beautiful day for hiking, as well.

Things changed, unfortunately, about 3:30-4pm; it got cloudy first, then foggy, then rainy. The trail got wet and slippery, just as I approached the hardest part of the Roller Coaster, and just as I was getting tired. I began stumbling more, and every jolt sent a shock of pain up my ribs. 3 miles of biting my lip and hiking on, because after all, what else could I do?

I reached Bear’s Den at 5:30, and advilled up, changed into dry clothes, and MaryAnn, Judy, and I went out for excellent hamburgers. And BEER. Things are much better now, but I need to think. 14 miles with a light pack was too much, but it was over the Roller Coaster, which has some of the toughest terrain in VA. And it’s done with. But still.

Seems like I will have the whole day tomorrow to think about it, too. The clouds are supposed to dump up to 2 inches of rain tonight and tomorrow night, and tomorrow, up to 3 inches. I’m not eager about hiking in a waterfall. I know I need to make mileage, but God keeps throwing all these obstacles in the path. Maybe I should listen. 

I pause and think. 

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Trail Notes – September 27 (VA Roller Coaster, Bear’s Den Hostel)

My backpack yellow-blazed today without me, the treacherous collection of fabric and plastic snaps! I followed after, much more slowly, on foot.

Today’s 8 mile hike  featured a light day pack, beautiful blue skies, beautiful, if rocky, path, and a lot of whistling. The whistling was to let any potential bears know I was coming – a northbound thru-hiker I met yesterday reported hearing, but not seeing, bears along the section I was walking.

It still feels odd to be walking south, and to have the sun to my left in the morning and to the right in the afternoon, instead of the other way around. It offkilters me. Also, though today was bright and sunny instead of cloudy and misty, the woods still feel like they are hiding something. Like anything might jump out at any time. I stayed alert.
About 4 or 5 miles along, I entered Virginia’s infamous 13-mile ‘roller coaster’, so named because the terrain map looks like a rollercoaster’s rails, with steep ups and downs, and abrupt curves. Honestly, though, tackling it just after having finished Maine… the first few miles of it, at least, seemed rather tamer than I expected. Of course, I was slackpacking, that helped.

Tomorrow I will slackpack again – be dropped off 13 miles from here at a road crossing, and hike back. After which I will try to carry the full backpack the next day. 

Hiking made my ribs twinge in pain a lot, but on the scale of discomfort to incapacitating, it definitely fell a lot closer to discomfort. While hiking. After I reached the hostel and attended to things like shower and laundry, and moved my upper body more, the pain needle swung upwards sharply. I advilled up.

And then I ate. Oh, did I eat. Pasta, pizza, cake, ice cream, I ate like a hungry hiker. One who is, believe it or not, hungry again. And lying flat on her back to avoid moving.

I hike on!

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Trail Notes – September 26 (Blackburn Center, VA)

Zerozerozerozero

Last night, before I went to sleep, I developed a Plan.

This zero day was NOT part of the Plan. I am disgruntled.

I spoke with Trailboss, the incredible trail-angelly caretaker, after studying my maps. One of the reportedly best hostels, the Bear’s Den, is only 8 miles up the trail, charges only $17 a night, and is downright hospitable. So my Plan was to have my full pack shuttled there, and slackpack those 8 miles, stay overnight, reassess and possibly slackpack another day. Trailboss called a friend of his who does shuttles, and we set it up for 9 am.

9 am came and went. 10 am. 11 am. Noon. 1 p.m. I gave up and resigned myself to another night here. Trailboss had left with a trail maintenance crew about 8:30, after giving me some excellent coffee and a donut, and his wife was in Harper’s Ferry, so I was All Alone most of the day.

It was not a day to feel comfortable being All Alone, I’ll tell you! This eerie mist started settling in, and there were crashes in the trees (probably bears – seriously), a lot of leaves crunching (probably small animals), a lot of wind moving trees (probably a movement of air), and I kept jumping with each crash (probably nerves. Also, ow.). It would have made a great horror movie setting!

A few more hikers are here now – two male, one female, and the mist is gone. Very cloudy and chilly though. Trailboss kept apologizing for the missing shuttle, even though it was in no way his fault, and will help me carry through the original Plan tomorrow. I know I am not making the kind of mileage I want to, but at least I will be moving forward.

Yesterday, while hiking, I reached a decision – regardless of where I am on the trail, I will end the hike in time to be home by Thanksgiving. I still hope to finish, will definitely get as much done as I can, but Thanksgiving is the cutoff. It will mark just over 8 months on the trail. Nothing to be ashamed of!

I hike on!

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Theme Song of the Night

Chumbawamba

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